Pork Summit 2017

The 7th annual Pork Summit was held at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone Campus in St. Helena, CA.

Stephen Gerike, Director of Foodservice Marketing and Innovation for The National Pork Board, kicked off Pork Summit 2017 with demos from award-winning chefs Cosmo Goss, Justin Carlisle, Brittanny Anderson and Justin Brunson. Each chef shared a unique cooking technique and dish. Goss of The Publican in Chicago, IL highlighted a creative use for the fresh leg with his Poached Pork Knuckle with tuna escabeche, green goddess dressing and fava bean salsa. Carlisle of Ardent and Red Light Ramen in Milwaukee, WI demonstrated Beer Mash-Fermented Pork Shoulder with rutabaga, yeast and cherry, showcasing pork shoulder’s versatility beyond pulled pork. Anderson of Metzger Bar and Butchery in Richmond, VA proved that pork loin has more potential than many chefs are tapping – she prepared Smoked Pork Loin with green garlic, pickled mackerel, pale ale jelly and hop oil. Brunson of Old Major in Denver, CO – known for his charcuterie and sausage – showed the crowd his House Mortadella with mozzarella and robiola encrozza, lard anchovy aioli and spring garnish, highlighting emulsified sausage and demonstrating how to elevate these meats into something high-end and beautiful.

Following the demonstrations, guests moved into CIA Greystone’s historic Barrel Room for a reception featuring the chef demo dishes, an additional dish from each chef, and wine and beer pairings. Goss partnered with Forlorn Hope Wines and served his Pork Knuckle demo dish with the 2014 Que Saudade Verdelho. He also served a Grilled Ham Steak with blood orange, green chile, dandelion greens and hazelnuts, which was served with the 2014 The Faufreluches Gewürztraminer. Carlisle’s Beer Mash-Fermented Pork Shoulder was paired with Lagunitas Brewing Company’s Lucky 13 Red Ale. Carlisle also offered a Pork Consommé Gelée with dried vegetables and pork katsuobushi paired with Lagunitas 12th of Never Ale. Anderson’s Smoked Pork Loin was paired with Matthiasson Wines’ 2015 Napa Valley Schioppettino from their eponymous vineyard. She also served a Sauerkraut-cured Crispy Rib Cake with kirsch, rhubarb and kohlrabi, paired with the 2014 Napa Valley Ribolla Gialla from Matthiasson. Brunson paired with Long Meadow Ranch Winery, who served their 2016 Rose of Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley with his Mortadella dish and their 2015 Sauvignon Blanc from Rutherford in Napa Valley paired with his Pork-and-Shrimp Sausage with radish, fennel, celery salad and rustic croutons. Guests left full, inspired and happy.

Saturday’s events began with a Menudo and Migas breakfast in the third floor teaching kitchens. A Pork 101 class taught by Gerike followed the delicious Mexican breakfast feast. Attendees learned about the pork industry from farm to fork, including breeds, production, animal care and meat science, and had a pork quality demonstration and tasting. Attendees were especially engaged when Brad Greenway, America’s Pig Farmer of the Year, joined and talked about his experience in the pork industry. CIA Chef Instructor Bill Briwa taught a segment on the art and science of brining, and guests enjoyed a Japanese lunch prepared by Chef Briwa and Chef Lars Kronmark, also a CIA instructor.

After lunch, Gerike demonstrated a whole hog fabrication ­– breaking down half a pig according to the common breaks used in foodservice following the Institutional Meat Purchaser Specifications, as well as explaining how to best utilize the parts in an independent restaurant. Attendees then broke into five teams made up of a demo chef, Taste of Elegance winners and foodservice media editors. Each team put what they had learned to use by breaking down a half hog and prepping for Sunday’s market basket exercise.

After a quick refresh at their hotels, guests attended a barbeque dinner at Farmstead Restaurant at Long Meadow Ranch. They were greeted with pork-centric appetizers, including country ham biscuit sandwiches and a charcuterie platter with a headcheese terrine. They sipped Long Meadow Ranch wine while watching Chef Stephen Barber prepare dinner in the outdoor fire pit. Once seated at long tables in the barn, guests enjoyed the family-style feast, which included Crispy Pig Ears and Char Siu Pork Loin Lettuce Wraps, Nashville Hot Shanks with pickles, Whole Porchetta with sauce mojo and shaved fennel, St. Louis Ribs with Memphis-style barbeque sauce and more. The evening ended with delicious strawberry shortcakes for dessert.

Everyone was excited to get back into the kitchen on Sunday. The chefs joined together in the market basket exhibition, testing all the techniques learned over the weekend. The teams had four hours to cook and produce five original dishes, which everyone enjoyed at a post-exhibition banquet.

From pork quality and industry science to hog butchery and brining, education is the goal of the Pork Summit. After a delicious weekend, attendees left St. Helena feeling inspired, with a deeper understanding of pork’s versatility and a greater appreciation for its incredible flavor.

Recipes

Poached Pork Knuckle with Tuna Escabeche, Green Goddess Dressing and Fava Bean Salsa

Chef Cosmo Goss of The Publican in Chicago, IL highlighted a creative use for the fresh leg.

Ingredients

1 pork knuckle, brined, poached and thinly sliced
As needed Green Goddess Dressing,
As needed Tuna Escabeche, with liquid
As needed salsa verde,
As needed fava beans, blanched

Garnish

As needed parsley, picked
As needed chives, picked
As needed cilantro, picked
As needed mint, picked

Salsa Verde

8 shallots, minced
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and chopped
10 anchovies, rinsed and chopped
1/2 cup champagne vinegar,
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil,
2 TBL honey,
1 jalapeño, minced, seeds, and ribs removed
2 TBL chives, minced
2 TBL mint, minced
2 TBL cilantro, minced
To taste salt,
To taste pepper,

Poaching Liquid

1 1/2 cups olive oil,
6 thyme sprigs,
2 Chile de Arbol,
2 bay leaves,

Tuna Escabeche

4 cups extra virgin olive oil,
1 onion, sliced
1 head garlic, slivered
1/4 cup coriander seed, toasted and ground
As needed sherry,
As needed vinegar,
2 oranges, zested and juiced
2 lemons, zested and juiced
1/4 cup honey,
1/4 cup Sriracha chili sauce,
3-pound tuna,
To taste salt,

Green Goddess Dressing

2 eggs,
1 TBL white wine vinegar,
1 clove garlic,
1 shallot, minced
1/2 lemon, juice
1/2 lime, juice
2 anchovies,
1/2 avocado,
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil,
1/2 cup cream,
4 TBL parsley, chopped
3 TBL tarragon, chopped
2 TBL cilantro, chopped
To taste salt,
To taste pepper

Method

  1. For the Poached Knuckle: Remove knuckle from brine and pat dry. Vacuum-seal with Poaching Liquid ingredients and cook in water bath at 138°F for 4 hours. Remove knuckle and let cool completely in the bag. Slice fully cooled pork knuckle on mechanical slicer into thin sheets.
  2. For the Tuna Escabeche: Put half the olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add onions, garlic and coriander and sweat until onions become tender and translucent
  3. Turn heat to medium and add sherry wine and vinegar and reduce by a third. Add remaining ingredients through Sriracha and simmer for 5-10 minutes until flavors are rounded out. Remove from heat, add the remaining oil, and let pickling liquid cool to 132°F
  4. While mixture cools, season tuna with salt and grill over high heat until rare and grilled on all sides. Let cool. Once liquid has cooled to proper temperature, pour liquid over grilled tuna. Hand-slice Tuna Escabeche into thin slices
  5. For the Green Goddess Dressing: Combine all ingredients in a blender and purée on low, increasing speed until mixture is smooth and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper as needed
  6. For the Salsa Verde: Combine ingredients until well mixed, season with salt and pepper to taste.
  7. Lightly dress blanched fava beans with a small amount of Salsa Verde
  8. To serve: Spoon a small amount of Green Goddess Dressing onto plate. Top with a few slices of Tuna Escabeche and dress with a spoonful of the pickling liquid. Top with thinly sliced pork knuckle, dressed fava beans and more Salsa Verde. Top with Garnish

Pork Summit Beverage Pairing:
2014 Que Saudade Verdelho, Forlorn Hope Wines

Recipe courtesy of Chef Cosmo Goss from The Publican, Chicago, IL

Beer Mash-Fermented Pork Shoulder with Rutabaga, Yeast and Cherry

Chef Justin Carlisle of Ardent and Red Light Ramen in Milwaukee, WI showcased pork shoulder’s versatility beyond pulled pork.

Ingredients

250 grams boneless pork shoulder, cleaned
50 grams 4-year-old garlic and red barley miso,
300 grams beer mash,

Cherry Miso

700 grams cherries, pitted and quartered
400 grams white miso,

Yeast Dashi

1000 grams rutabaga,
30 grams toasted yeast,
30 grams kombu,

Rutabaga

60 grams rutabaga, peeled and cut into eighths
200 grams Yeast Dashi,
30 grams butter,
To taste salt,
To taste pepper

Method

  1. For the Pork Shoulder: Blend garlic miso mixture and beer mash in a food processor until well mixed. Rub pork with mix and vacuum-seal at high pressure; leave for 3 weeks
  2. Then, cook pork sous vide at 140°F for 24 hours
  3. Remove pork from vacuum bag; sear in pan and rest for 10 minutes before slicing
  4. For the Yeast Dashi: Vacuum-seal ingredients at medium pressure and steam at 71°C for 90 minutes
  5. For the Rutabaga: Place cut rutabaga in vacuum-seal bag with Yeast Dashi (from recipe above) and seal at high pressure. Cook in water bath at 84°C for 12 hours, then remove to sauté pan, caramelize with butter and season with salt and pepper
  6. For the Cherry Miso: Vacuum-seal cherries and miso at high pressure; let sit for 1 week
    Remove and blend in a blender until smooth
  7. To serve: Slice one thick 100 g. slice of pork, lay flat on plate, and place Rutabaga and a dot of Cherry Miso next to pork

Pork Summit Beverage Pairing:
12th of Never Ale, Lagunitas Brewing Company

Recipe courtesy of Chef Justin Carlisle from Ardent and Red Light Ramen, Milwaukee, WI

Smoked Pork Loin with Green Garlic, Pickled Mackerel, Pale Ale Jelly and Hop Oil

Chef Brittanny Anderson of Metzger Bar and Butchery in Richmond, VA proved that pork loin has more potential than many chefs are tapping with her demo dish.

Ingredients

1 whole pork loin,
5 cups salt,
2 1/2 cups sugar,
2 lemons, sliced
10 bay leaves,
1 head garlic head, sliced in half
1 onion, sliced
1 TBL black peppercorns,
2 quarts German beer,
4 quarts water,
16 quarts ice,

Garnish

Baby mustard greens, as needed

Green Garlic Mayo

1/2 cup pickled mackerel,
3 stems green garlic tops, blanched
Water as needed ,
2 cups mayonnaise,

Pale Ale Jelly

16 sheets gelatin,
6 ounces beer, pale ale
6 ounces malt vinegar,

Hop Oil

1 cup hops, fresh or dry*
3 cups blended oil,
1/4 cup parsley leaves, picked

Method

  1. For the Smoked Pork: Trim excess fat and silver skin. Tie the loin in 1-in. intervals. Mix together remaining ingredients except ice in large pot and bring to simmer. Stir to dissolve salt and sugar and remove from the heat. Pour over the ice and chill completely before fully submerging the pork. Brine for 8-12 hours
  2. Smoke the whole loin, no higher than 140°F, for twenty minutes. Remove and vacuum seal loin in a bag and cook sous vide at 133°F for 2 hours. Cool and hold pork whole until ready to slice and grill
  3. For the Green Garlic Mayo: Purée pickled mackerel and green garlic in blender, adding small amounts of water until smooth. Remove purée and fold in mayonnaise until fully combined
  4. For the Pale Ale Jelly: Bloom gelatin sheets in cold water. Heat beer and vinegar in a pot over medium heat. Once gelatin has softened, remove and squeeze excess water from sheets. Remove pot from heat and add gelatin, stirring to combine and fully dissolve. Pour liquid into a ¼-sheet pan and chill until fully set.
  5. When jelly is set, cut into cubes and push through mesh strainer to achieve a caviar-like consistency
  6. For the Hop Oil: Blend hops, oil and parsley for 2 minutes or until green color of hops and parsley intensifies. Strain through a chinois and reserve
  7. To serve: Slice a serving portion of pork loin and grill until medium rare. Serve with Green Garlic Mayo, Pale Ale Jelly, a drizzle of Hop Oil, and top with Garnish

*If using dry hops, re-hydrate in water first

Pork Summit Beverage Pairing:
2015 Napa Valley Schioppettino, Matthiasson Vineyard, Matthiasson Wines

Recipe courtesy of Chef Brittanny Anderson from Metzger Bar & Butchery, Richmond, VA

House Mortadella with Mozzarella and Robiola Encorozza, Lard Anchovy Aoili and Spring Garnish

Chef Justin Brunson of Old Major in Denver, CO – known for his charcuterie and sausage – showed the crowd to make his House Mortadella.

Ingredients

9071.84 grams pork shoulder, Cubed and separated, 60/40 lean to fat
28.12 grams TCM,
163.29 grams salt,
79.83 grams sugar,
11.79 grams garlic powder,
16.33 grams white pepper,
11.79 grams mace,
8.16 grams coriander,
4.08 grams nutmeg,
181.44 grams non-fat powdered milk,
453.59 grams crushed ice,
54.43 grams white wine,
1360.78 grams pork back fat, diced and blanched
260.36 grams pistachios,

Garnish

As needed bronze fennel sprigs,
As needed pickled herbs,
As needed white anchovy,

Lard Aioli

2 egg yolks,
1 TBL Dijon-style mustard,
2 cups lard, warm
1/4 cup garlic, minced
1/2 cup anchovies, minced
1/2 cup capers,
1/4 cup lemon juice,
To taste salt,
To taste pepper,

Grilled Cheese

1/4 cup mozzarella cheese,
2 TBL robiola cheese,
2 slices white bread, crusts removed
2 slices mortadella, grilled
1 cup panko bread crumbs,
1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves,
3/4 teaspoon onion powder,
1/8 teaspoon garlic powder,
1/2 cup a.p. flour,
2 eggs, beated
3 TBL butter

Method

  1. For the Mortadella: Keep all ingredients cold to start. Add lean pork shoulder, salt and dry spices to a buffalo chopper and chop for 5 minutes to break down the proteins. Add fat pork shoulder, ice and white wine; chop until mixture reaches 48°F
  2. Remove mixture and fold in blanched fatback and pistachios. Using a sausage stuffer with a large nozzle, fill mortadella chubs, tie off and truss lengthwise. Poach the finished sausage at 155°F for 2 hours
  3. For the Lard Aioli: Put egg yolks in base of blender with Dijon mustard. Blend on lowest setting while slowly drizzling in warm lard; gradually increase speed and stream to emulsify. When fully emulsified, add garlic, anchovies, capers and lemon juice; blend to combine. Season aioli with salt and pepper to taste.
  4. For the Grilled Cheese: In a bowl, combine mozzarella and robiola cheeses. Mix with fork or by hand until combined. Place mortadella slices on one slice of bread, top with cheese mixture and remaining bread slice. Season panko with thyme and onion and garlic powders, then use Standard Breading Procedure with all purpose flour, whisked eggs and seasoned panko to coat the sandwich, covering all edges
  5. Heat small sauté pan over medium heat and add butter. Once it foams, place sandwich in pan and toast until first side is golden brown. Flip and baste with butter until both sides and all edges are golden brown and crispy
  6. To serve: Spoon a circle of Lard Aioli on the plate. Cut Grilled Cheese in half and plate one half. Top with Garnish

Pork Summit Beverage Pairing:
2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Long Meadow Ranch Winery

Recipe courtesy of Chef Justin Brunson from Brunson Concepts, Denver, CO

Image Gallery

Chef Demonstrations and Presentations

Chefs Cosmo Goss and Ben Truesdell of The Publican, Chicago, IL
Chef Justin Carlisle of Ardent and Red Light Ramen, Milwaukee, WI
Chef Brittanny Anderson of Metzger Bar & Butchery, Richmond, VA
Chef Justin Brunson of Brunson Concepts, Denver, CO

Pork Pairing Reception

Educational Presentations

America’s Pig Farmer of the Year Brad Greenway of Greenway Farms, Mitchell, SD
Chef Bill Briwa of the Culinary Institute of America – Greystone, St. Helena, CA
Stephen Gerike of the National Pork Board, Church Hill, MD

Live Fire Dinner at Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch

Market Basket Teams