Pork Summit 2015
The 5th annual Pork Summit, Dim Sum and Then Some, was held at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone campus in St. Helena, CA.
The National Pork Board hosted their 5th Annual Pork Summit March 27 through March 30, 2015 at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone campus in St. Helena, CA. The by-invitation-only event brings together winners from State and Regional Taste of Elegance competitions, nationally recognized chefs and foodservice trade media editors for a pork-centric educational innovation weekend. Stephen Gerike, Director of Foodservice; Marketing and Innovation for The National Pork Board, kicked off Pork Summit 2015 by introducing the theme – Global Dim Sum – and four renowned chefs: Chef Rodelio Aglibot of Yum Cha in Chicago, IL, Chef Paul Carmichael of má pêche in New York, NY, Chef Chris Shepherd of Underbelly in Houston, TX, and Chef Michael Scelfo of Alden & Harlow in Boston, MA.
Global dim sum is a growing trend – creative chefs at restaurants across the country are pushing the traditional service beyond classic Cantonese, serving global-inspired dishes that customers can’t get enough of. Gerike explained that dim sum offers something for everyone, with small-plate menus and ready-to-eat cart service. Kitchens and staff get increased flexibility, without worrying over tickets and timing, while patrons get to satisfy their taste for adventure. Chefs Aglibot, Carmichael, Shepherd, and Scelfo showcased their unique interpretations of global dim sum with dishes that combined innovation, tradition, and of course, pork.
Chef Aglibot presented a dim sum duo of Pork and Shrimp Siu Mai paired with a take on Char Siu made with pork jowl. For a twist on the traditional siu mai technique, he washed blood from a pork shoulder before grinding it to give the dumplings a lighter texture. He combined the ground pork with ground shrimp and ground fatback, as well as a seasoning mix made of soy sauce, dry sherry, sesame oil and dried shrimp powder before wrapping it in a wonton wrapper and steaming. Chef Aglibot’s Char Siu started with brown sugar-cured pork jowl for the extra fattiness, and he marinated it in the traditional mixture of honey, soy sauce, rice wine and hoisin.
Chef Carmichael demonstrated a take on a traditional English Scotch Egg. He soft-scrambled egg yolks,sous vide and in an immersion circulator to create a velvety custard, which he formed into a round “yolk” using silicone molds. He wrapped the “yolks” with breakfast sausage made with ground pork shoulder and pork fat, seasoned with maple syrup, coriander, sage and New Mexico chili powder, then breaded and deep-fried them. The Scotch Eggs were finished with shaved Ubriaco Rosso cheese, a drizzle of maple syrup and chopped chives for the perfect salty, sweet, rich bite.
Chef Shepherd channeled French and Vietnamese influences for his Pig Face Thit Kho (stew). After curing and slow cooking the pork mask sous vide and in an immersion circulator for 48 hours, he roasted it until crispy and added it to a flavorful broth made with onions, jalapeños, carrots, star anise, cinnamon, fish sauce and pork stock. He garnished the umami-packed bowl with Coca Cola-pickled onions and a toasted baguette.
Chef Scelfo demonstrated a classic French technique by creating a Pork Cheek and Liver Roulade. He seared, braised and shredded the cheek meat, mixed it with seared and chopped liver and bound the mixture with Activa® RM Transglutaminase before rolling it into a roulade. He then seared the sliced roulade and served it with Dijon-seasoned yogurt, pickled radish, celery and mustard seeds, walnut halves and edible flowers.
After the presentations, guests attended a welcome reception at Farmstead Restaurant at Long Meadow Ranch. They were greeted with pork-centric appetizers, including Mini La Quercia Ham Sandwiches and Boudin Noir Croquettes while Chef Stephen Barber cooked a whole-hog barbecue outside in the live fire pit. Dinner was a family-style feast under the twinkling Napa lights on picnic tables outside Farmstead’s shabby-chic barn. Guests enjoyed a whole-smoked heritage pig and St. Louis ribs accompanied by asparagus salad with country ham, plancha-cooked beet salad and cowboy pork and beans – followed with delicious strawberry shortcake for dessert.
Saturday’s events started with a Ramen Bar breakfast – guests received a bowl of ramen noodles, chose either a spicy or mild tonkotsu broth, and then topped their bowls with pork tonkatsu, pork belly, buttered corn, togarashi, Shoyu Tamago, kombu, sesame seeds and green onions. After breakfast guests sat down in the Ecolab Theater for a Pork 101 class taught by Gerike. Attendees learned about the pork industry from farm to fork, including breeds, production, animal care and meat science, and were given a pork quality demonstration and tasting. In addition to Gerike’s presentation, CIA Chef Instructor Bill Briwa taught a segment on the art and science of brining. Guests enjoyed an Oaxacan-themed meal for lunch, and then Gerike demonstrated how to break down a half hog into primals. The discussion focused on the new Meat Buyer’s Guide updates including pork chop nomenclature and value cuts like the individual fresh leg muscles.
After the butchering demonstration, chefs were divided into teams made up of a demonstration chef, members of the foodservice media and several Taste of Elegance winners. Each team put their butchering skills to the test to break down their own half hog and prepare for the Sunday market basket exercise. Attendees then enjoyed a pork-and-beer pairing class from Jared Rouben, Brewmaster at Moody Tongue Brewery, followed by a dim sum-style reception in the Ventura Center. Chef Robert Danhi, Southeast Asian food expert, filled roaming carts with Crispy Sriracha Grilled Pork Ribs, Double Crunch Vietnamese Pork Rolls, Miso Ramen Bacon Yakitori, Cracklin’ Pork Belly bites with a tomato-pineapple pickle and Singaporean Pork Curry Paratha Puffs. The dim sum fare paired perfectly with the Moody Tongue beers.
Everyone was excited to get back into the kitchen on Sunday after a country ham, sausage, gravy and biscuit bar breakfast. Teams joined together in a market basket exhibition, testing all the techniques learned over the weekend. The teams had four hours to cook and produce four dishes, which were all enjoyed at a post-exhibition banquet.
From butchery and global dim sum to the perfect pork-and-beer pairings, education and innovation is the goal of the Pork Summit. After a delicious weekend, attendees left St. Helena feeling inspired, with a deeper understanding of pork’s versatility and a greater appreciation for its incredible flavor.
A Conversation With Pork Summit Chefs
Global Dim Sum
Paul Carmichael, má pêche
Michael Scelfo, Alden & Harlow
Rodelio Aglibot, Yum Cha
Chris Shepherd, Underbelly
At Pork Summit 2015, Chef Paul Carmichael served a take on a Scotch egg, made with custard “yolks” wrapped in breakfast sausage and drizzled with maple syrup.
As needed Ubriaco Rosso,
As needed chives,
As needed maple syrup,
600 grams fresh egg yolks,
195 grams crème fraîche,
30 grams chives, thinly sliced
270 grams bacon, baked and finely chopped
1600 grams pork butt,
700 grams pork fat,
66 grams maple syrup,
11 grams MSG,
46 grams salt,
3 grams coriander seed, toasted and ground
1 g sage, dried and ground
5 grams black pepper,
2 grams New Mexican chili powder,
Standard Breading Procedure
As needed flour,
As needed eggs,
As needed panko breadcrumbs
- Egg custard: Vacuum seal egg yolks and cook in a water bath at 75°C for 11 minutes. Every three minutes throughout the cooking process, remove bag and quickly massage it to help minimize lumps. Continue cooking. After 11 minutes, plunge mixture into an ice bath. The result should be a thick curd. When cold, pass through a chinois. Mix with remaining ingredients and season to taste with salt and pepper and put into piping bags.
- Use a sheet of small silicone molds (about the size of a quarter) to create “yolks.” Spray with nonstick spray and pipe egg custard into each mold. Use an offset spatula to flatten the top of each mold. Freeze for several hours or overnight until fully set.
- Remove “yolks” from the mold. Using a blowtorch, heat the flat sides of the “yolks” and stick them together to create a sphere. Repeat as necessary until all the egg custard is used. Refreeze until ready to form.
- Breakfast sausage: It is important that all ingredients and equipment are ice cold. Keep mise en place over ice and re-chill as necessary. Double grind the meat and fat through the finest grinder plate. Add seasonings and paddle to combine. Cook a small patty of sausage to test for texture and seasoning. Adjust accordingly and chill for at least one hour.
- Weigh out 20 grams of the sausage mixture and flatten into a disc. Place one of the frozen “yolks” in the center and roll the sausage mixture to fully encase it. Continue rolling until all the “yolks” are encased.
- Roll each sausage ball in standard breading procedure: flour, beaten eggs and panko. Fry the Scotch eggs at 375°F for a few minutes until golden brown. Finish in a 350°F oven until centers are just warmed through.
Source: Paul Carmichael for 2015 Pork Summit
Garnish with shaved Ubriaco Rosso, a drizzle of maple syrup and chopped chives.
Pork and Shrimp Siu Mai
These wonton-wrapped pork shoulder and shrimp dumplings were part of Chef Rodelio Aglibot’s Pork Summit 2015 dim sum duo.
1/2 pound Tobiko fish roe,
10 pounds boneless pork shoulder,
2 1/2 pounds pork back fat,
5 pounds Mexican white shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 cup soy sauce, light
1 cup dry sherry,
1 teaspoon white pepper,
1/4 cup sesame oil,
3/4 pound cornstarch,
2 TBL salt,
6 oz dried shrimp powder, See note
1/4 cup garlic, minced
1 1/2 TBL sugar,
120 won ton wrappers
- Trim and slice pork shoulder for grinding. Wash pork in cold water for one hour under running water or soak in several changes of cold water.
- Grind pork shoulder, shrimp and fatback separately using a ¼” grinder plate.
- Mix remaining ingredients until cornstarch, sugar and salt are fully dissolved.
- Transfer ground pork, fat and shrimp into bowl of a large mixer with paddle attachment. Mix on low until just mixed through. Add seasoning base, mix on low for three minutes and then on medium for three minutes. Transfer mixture to a hotel pan and chill for at least one hour.
- Cut corners off your wonton wrappers. Place 1¼ oz. filling in center of wrapper and use a butter knife to press down the filling while holding the wrapper in a pocket shape. Bring edges of wrapper up alongside the siu mai, the final shape should be a short cylinder with an open top.
- Transfer siu mai to a freezer for four hours. Remove from freezer one hour before steaming. Place in steamer basket and steam for six to seven minutes until cooked through.
Source: Rodelio Aglibot for 2015 Pork Summit
Notes: You can make your own dried shrimp powder by fully dehydrating dried shrimp in a 300° oven for 20-30 minutes, or until they feel fully dried and brittle. Grind them in a blender or spice grinder until fully pulverized.
Pork Jowl Char Siu
Chef Rodelio Aglibot cured pork jowl in brown sugar, barbecued it and brushed on a honey-soy sauce glaze for his take on char siu at Pork Summit 2015.
20 pounds pork jowl,
2 cups Chinese rice wine, OR dry sherry
3 cups hoisin sauce,
1 cup soy sauce,
2 cups honey,
1/2 cup brown sugar,
1 cup water,
1 cup Chinese wine,
1 cup honey,
1 cup soy sauce
- Pack pork jowls with brown sugar until completely covered and refrigerate overnight.
- Remove jowls from the cure and brush off sugar. Combine rice wine, hoisin, soy sauce and honey. Marinate jowls in mixture for 12-24 hours.
- Preheat oven to 300°F. Remove jowls from marinade and place on roasting racks. Roast jowls for 45 minutes. Remove from oven and hold until ready to serve.
- Raise temperature of oven to 350°F. Combine ingredients for glazing sauce and glaze surface of char siu jowls. Roast five minutes, re-glazing if necessary, until jowls are glossy and deeply roasted.
Source: Rodelio Aglibot for Pork Summit
Pork Cheek and Liver Roulade
This savory roulade is made with crispy pork cheek and liver and topped with pickled giardiniera, created by Chef Michael Scelfo at Pork Summit 2015.
10 pounds pork cheeks,
2 pounds fresh pork liver,
2 cups red wine,
3 quarts pork stock,
2 cups onions, medium dice
1 cup carrots, medium dice
1 cup celery, medium dice
1 cup apple, medium dice
1 cup fennel, medium dice
1 bunch thyme leaves, picked
2 bunch chives, finely chopped
1 bunch parsley, flat leaf, finely chopped
To taste salt,
To taste pepper,
As needed olive oil,
As needed Activa® RM Transglutaminase, (2% by weight)
As needed Giadiniera,
As needed Greek yogurt, high quality, full fat and seasoned with Dijon mustard and salt
As needed mustard seed, reconstituted in pickling liquid
As needed walnut halves, blanched in simple syrup and fried
As needed edible flowers,
As needed olive oil, high quality
As needed maldon salt,
1 quart assorted vegetables, cauliflower florets, carrots, celery,haricot verts, radishes
2 quarts apple cider vinegar,
2 cups sugar,
1 cup salt,
1/4 cup pickling spice,
5 clove garlic, whole
- Preheat oven to 300°F. Heat enough olive oil to coat the bottom of a pan over medium-high heat. Season cheeks with salt and pepper and sear, working in batches until nicely browned on all sides. Transfer seared cheeks to a deep-sided hotel pan. Deglaze the searing pan with red wine and pour wine and deglazed fond over the cheeks. Add mirepoix to the hotel pan (including apple and fennel) and add pork stock as needed to braise cheeks. Cover with parchment paper and wrap hotel pan with aluminum foil. Place in oven and braise slowly until completely tender, approximately four hours. Allow meat to cool in the braising liquid and rest overnight.
- The following day, gently warm the braise to release the cheek meat and strain off the mirepoix from the braising liquid. Discard mirepoix and reserve braising liquid. Reduce braising liquid over low heat until thickened slightly (nappe consistency.) Shred cheek meat and reserve, covered, until ready to make the roulade mixture.
- In a pan over medium-high heat, sear liver until cooked to medium doneness. Let cool and cut into ½” pieces.
- Combine shredded cheek meat and pork liver, season with thyme leaves, chopped chives, parsley, salt and pepper. Bind mixture with Activa® RM Transglutaminase, using a ratio of 2% by weight. Roll mixture into 1½” diameter roulades and chill overnight.
- Giardiniera: Cut giardiniera vegetables into desired shapes and sizes. Heat apple cider vinegar in a pot over medium-high heat, add sugar and salt and stir until completely dissolved. Add pickling spices and garlic cloves and pour warm mixture over your vegetables. The vegetables are ready to use after two hours, but are best if left to sit in the refrigerator overnight.
Source: Michael Scelfo for Pork Summit
To serve: Slice roulades into ¾” rings and sear on both sides until crisped and warmed through. Serve on a smear of Dijon-seasoned yogurt, spoon reduced braising liquid over top of roulade and season with Maldon salt. Garnish with pickles, pickled mustard seeds, walnut halves, edible flowers and a drizzle of high quality olive oil.
Pig Face Thit Kho
Chef Chris Shepherd served up a savory thit kho stew made with sous-vide pig face and Coca Cola-pickled red onions at Pork Summit 2015.
1 TBL unsalted butter,
1 Sous vide pig face ,
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 jalapeño, stemmed and sliced into rounds
4 whole star anise,
2 cinnamon sticks,
1/2 cup brown sugar,
Red Boat fish sauce,
3 cups pork stock, preferably homemade
4 medium carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
To taste salt,
To taste pepper,
Sous Vide Pig Face
1 Pigs Head,
Coca Cola-Pickled Red Onions
1 12 ounce can Coca Cola,
4 oz soy sauce,
2 TBL sambal olek,
2 TBL lime juice,
4 oz cider vinegar
- Sous vide pig face: Clean pig head thoroughly, making sure to get behind the ears. Remove errant hairs with a razor. Starting from under the mouth, make an incision and peel back the flesh from the bone, working around the entire head to remove it. Once the flesh is removed, brine the face in a water, salt, and sugar solution for 24 hours.
- Remove the face from the brine and pat dry. Roll head into a roll and place into a cryovac bag. Seal on the highest setting and place in an immersion circulator set to 60°C. Keep submerged in water bath for 48 hours.
- After 48 hours, remove and chill in an ice water bath. When fully cooled, remove from bag and cut into 1” cubes. Before adding to the finished broth, place cubes in hotel pan outfitted with a rack and cook at 500°F for 15 minutes or until crispy.
- Coca Cola pickled red onion: Heat a medium sauce pot over high heat. Add Coca Cola, soy sauce and sambal olek. Reduce by two-thirds.
Remove from heat and add lime juice and cider vinegar.
- While still warm, pour over sliced onions and let steep at least two hours.
- Pig face thit kho: Heat butter in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring periodically to prevent burning, until softened, about eight minutes.
- Add jalapeño, star anise and cinnamon sticks to the pan and cook, stirring until fragrant, about two minutes. Add sugar and cook, stirring until dissolved, about two minutes. Add fish sauce and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of the pan with wooden spoon, about one minute. Pour in pork stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered for about 20 minutes.
- Add carrots and 1” cubes of crisped pig face to the pot. Simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.
Source: Chris Shepherd for 2015 Pork Summit
To serve: Divide stew among four bowls and serve with baguette or warm rice. Garnish with Coca Cola-pickled red onions.